Buying a new home should be exciting. But even brand-new properties often have defects. Some are minor, like cosmetic issues. Others can be more serious.
Without a proper snagging inspection, many problems go unnoticed until after you move in, when the developer may be less willing to fix them.
This guide explains:
- What a snagging list is
- Why you need one
- When and how to carry out a snagging inspection
- What to include in your snag list
- How to use it to hold your developer accountable
We’ve also included a room-by-room snagging checklist you can use for your own inspection.
What Is a Snagging List?
A snagging list (or snag list) is a written record of all defects, unfinished work, and poor finishes in a new home. It acts like a punch list of everything the developer needs to fix before or shortly after you take ownership.
A snag is any issue that falls below the standard you should reasonably expect or does not match your contract. Snags can range from minor to serious:
- Cosmetic snags: Paint splashes, scuffs, scratched surfaces, incomplete decoration.
- Minor defects: Poorly fitted kitchen units, misaligned doors, gaps in skirting boards.
- Moderate defects: Cracked tiles, faulty appliances, improperly sealed windows.
- Significant defects: Damp, poor insulation, drainage problems, structural issues.
A detailed snag list creates a formal record the developer must address.
Fact: On average, a professional snagging inspection finds 100–150 snags in a new build. Some inspections identify over 200 issues. This is normal in new construction.
Why Is a Snagging List Important?
Many first-time buyers assume a new home will be defect-free. In reality, new builds involve many trades working under time and cost pressures. Quality can be inconsistent, and issues are common.
Here’s why a thorough snagging list matters:
1. It Protects Your Legal Rights
When you buy a new build, your contract sets the standard of finish and specifications the developer must meet. If the property does not meet these standards, you have a legal right to have defects fixed.
A snagging list provides proof that these defects exist.
Most new builds in England are covered by the Consumer Code for Home Builders, which gives buyers extra rights for snagging issues. Many also include an NHBC Buildmark warranty or similar schemes such as LABC, Premier Guarantee, or BOPAS, which offer formal ways to report defects.
2. It Is Easier to Get Defects Fixed Before Completion
Developers are most willing to fix snags before legal completion. They want the sale to go through and any retention payments released. After completion, their financial incentive drops. Submitting your snag list early gives you the most leverage.
3. It Creates a Formal Paper Trail
A written snag list provides a record of all defects. This is important if disputes arise later. Verbal conversations with a site manager carry little weight. A dated, itemised list submitted in writing is formal and legally stronger.
4. It Can Reveal Serious Issues You Might Otherwise Miss
Not all snags are obvious. A professional inspector or a detailed checklist can uncover problems most buyers would miss, such as:
- Poor insulation
- Windows that do not seal properly
- Non-compliant electrical fittings
- Structural defects in walls, floors, or roof
Important: Do not rely solely on the NHBC warranty or the developer’s own quality checks. NHBC inspections are limited and periodic. An independent snagging inspection is essential.
When Should You Do Your Snagging Inspection?
Timing is key in the snagging process. There are two main options:
Option 1: Before Legal Completion (Best)
The ideal time for a snagging inspection is just before legal completion. By this point, the property should be mostly finished. This gives you maximum leverage with the developer.
Some developers may resist access, saying the property “isn’t ready.” Don’t accept this without question. Under the Consumer Code for Home Builders, you have the right to inspect your new home before completion.
Option 2: Within the First Two Years After Completion
If you couldn’t carry out a pre-completion inspection, the next best time is soon after moving in.
Most NHBC Buildmark warranties (or similar schemes) require defects to be reported within the first two years. This period is called the developer’s liability period.
During these two years, the developer must fix defects. After this period, the warranty usually only covers major structural issues (years 3–10) and not general finishing problems.
The key point: do your snagging inspection as early as possible. The sooner snags are documented and submitted, the sooner they get fixed and the stronger your position if the developer does not respond.
Should You Use a Professional Snagging Inspector?
You have two options: do it yourself or hire a professional inspector.
DIY Snagging
You can inspect the property yourself using a detailed checklist.
- Advantages: low cost and you know your property specification best.
- Disadvantages: you may miss technical issues, especially with structural elements, insulation, drainage, and electrical/plumbing systems.
Professional Snagging Inspector
Carried out by a qualified inspector, ideally RICS-registered or approved by the New Homes Quality Board. The inspector visits the property and produces a detailed written report.
- Costs: usually £300–£600 depending on property size.
- Advantages:
- Detects technical defects beyond cosmetic issues
- Written report carries weight with developers and legal teams
- Inspector knows building standards, tolerances, and NHBC rules
- Often finds 2–3 times more snags than a self-inspection
Recommendation:
If your budget allows, hire a professional inspector. Use the DIY checklist from this guide as a supplement to catch minor cosmetic issues. Combining both approaches gives the best results.
How to Create Your Snagging List: A Step-by-Step Process
A snagging list records all defects in a new build so the developer is required to fix them. A careful, methodical approach ensures nothing is missed and provides strong evidence if disputes arise.
Step 1: Prepare Before the Inspection
Before attending the property, gather:
- Your purchase contract and the developer’s specification document
- Floor plans
- A printed snagging checklist or template
- A torch or phone torch
- A spirit level for floors, walls, and fitted furniture
- A phone charger or small appliance to test sockets
- A notepad and pen, or a snagging app
- A camera or phone to photograph defects
Set aside at least two to four hours. Larger properties may require more time. Rushing reduces the quality of your inspection.
Step 2: Work Systematically, Room by Room
The best approach is to move room by room, starting from the outside and working inward, then from the top floor downward. This ensures nothing is missed and lets you cross-check against your floor plans.
In each room, check:
- Floors, walls, and ceilings
- Windows, doors, and frames
- Skirting boards, architraves, and coving
- Light fittings, switches, and sockets
- Heating controls and radiators
- Fitted furniture (wardrobes, kitchen units, bathroom fixtures)
Step 3: Photograph Every Defect
Every snag you find should be photographed, clearly captioned, and dated. Take the photo close enough to show the defect clearly, but also include enough of the surrounding area so its location in the property is obvious. If possible, photograph each defect from two angles.
Photos create a strong visual record that is difficult for a developer to dispute. Without them, a developer might deny a defect existed or claim it was caused after you moved in.
Step 4: Record Defects in Detail
For each snag, record:
- Location: Room and exact position within the room
- Nature of the defect: What it is and how it appears
- Photograph reference: Number or label for each photo
- Severity: Cosmetic, minor, moderate, or significant
- Specialist attention needed: Electrical, structural, drainage, etc.
The more detailed your records, the harder it is for the developer to dismiss or downplay defects.
Step 5: Compile and Submit Your Formal Snag List
After the inspection, put all your findings into a written document called your snagging list. Send it to the developer in writing. Email is best because it creates a dated record. Include all photos of defects. Address it to the developer’s customer care or aftercare team, not just the site manager. Keep a copy of everything you send.
Step 6: Follow Up in Writing
Developers must respond to snagging submissions within a reasonable time. The Consumer Code for Home Builders sets out what to expect. If you do not get a response within 10 to 14 days, follow up in writing. Keep a record of all correspondence.
If the developer does not respond or disputes your snag list unfairly, escalate the issue. You can contact the NHBC if your property has a Buildmark warranty, the New Homes Ombudsman for properties sold after April 1, 2024, or your solicitor, who can write formally on your behalf.
The Complete Snagging Checklist: Room by Room
This checklist is for use during your property inspection. It covers all the main areas of a typical new build home. Work through each section carefully and record any defects you find.
Note on tolerances: Building work is done by hand, so minor imperfections within normal limits are not considered snags. As a guide, a crack narrower than a hairline in fresh plaster is normal and usually addressed during settlement. A crack wide enough to fit a credit card is a defect. When in doubt, make a note of it.
| EXTERIOR & GROUNDS | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Brickwork / render — cracks, chips, staining | Cracked mortar joints or spalled bricks | High |
| Roof tiles / slates — all present and correctly fixed | Missing, slipped, or cracked tiles | High |
| Gutters and downpipes — aligned, watertight, secure | Leaking joints or missing brackets | Medium |
| Fascias and soffits — condition and fixings | Gaps, cracks, or loose sections | Medium |
| External doors — fit, operation, draught seals | Poorly fitting doors or missing weather seals | High |
| Windows — all open/close correctly, trickle vents present | Stiff or non-opening windows, failed seals | High |
| Window sills — no cracks or gaps to brickwork | Gaps allowing water ingress | High |
| External lighting — all fittings present and working | Missing bulbs or non-functional lights | Low |
| Driveway / paths — surface finish, levels, drainage | Cracked surface or pooling water | Medium |
| Garden / turf — level, complete, free from debris | Unfinished levelling or construction waste | Medium |
| Boundary fences / walls — complete, plumb, secure | Missing panels or leaning posts | Medium |
| Drainage gulley pots — clean and undamaged | Debris, cracks, or subsidence around gulleys | High |
| Manholes — covers present, level with surrounding surface | Raised or sunken manhole covers | Medium |
| HALLWAY, STAIRCASE & LANDINGS | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Front door — fit, operation, lock, letterbox, threshold | Stiff lock, gap at threshold | High |
| Staircase — treads and risers, no movement or squeaking | Loose treads or excessive flex | High |
| Stair handrail / balustrade — secure, gap between balusters ≤10cm | Loose handrail or excess gaps (safety issue) | High |
| Walls — plaster finish, no cracks or hollows | Hollow plaster or visible cracking | Medium |
| Ceilings — level, no cracks, no overspray | Cracks or uneven plasterboard joins | Medium |
| Skirting boards — mitred joints, fixed, gaps filled | Gaps at corners or to floor | Low |
| Doors — all hang correctly, latch properly, no binding | Doors catching on frames or floors | Medium |
| Light fittings — present, working, correctly seated | Missing or non-functioning lights | Low |
| Sockets and switches — flush, square, all working | Non-flush plates or dead sockets | Medium |
| Flooring — condition, joins, threshold strips present | Bubbling, lifting, or mismatched joins | Medium |
| LIVING ROOM & DINING ROOM | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Walls — plaster finish, no cracks, no paint runs or misses | Bare patches, paint runs, or cracking | Low |
| Ceilings — level, no visible board joins, coving fitted | Sagging or cracking at board joints | Medium |
| Window boards — level, correctly fitted, no gaps | Gaps to plaster or poorly mitred corners | Low |
| Radiators — level, fully functional, valves operational | Cold spots or leaking valve connections | High |
| Fireplace / media wall (if included) — finish and function | Poor finish or non-functional features | Medium |
| French or bi-fold doors — all panels open smoothly | Stiff panels, misalignment, or gaps in seals | High |
| Sockets and switches — number per specification, flush | Missing sockets or non-compliant positions | Medium |
| TV / data points — present per specification | Missing or non-functional data outlets | Low |
| Flooring — no lifting, bubbling, or damaged sections | Lifting boards or scratched surfaces | Medium |
| Coving / cornice — mitred joints, fully adhered | Gaps at corners or pulling away from ceiling | Low |
| KITCHEN | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Unit doors and drawer fronts — aligned, level, no gaps | Misaligned doors or uneven reveals | Medium |
| Hinges and soft-close mechanisms — all functional | Broken hinges or missing soft-close | Medium |
| Worktops — no chips, scratches, or unsupported sections | Chips at cut-outs or gaps to upstand | Medium |
| Upstands / splashback — fully adhered, grouted, sealed | Lifting upstand or missing silicone seal | Medium |
| Sink — correctly fitted, no movement, fully sealed | Movement in sink or missing sealant bead | High |
| Taps — operate correctly, no drips | Dripping taps or cross-threaded connections | High |
| Appliances (oven, hob, extractor) — all functional | Non-functioning appliances or missing manuals | High |
| Dishwasher connection — plumbed correctly, no leaks | Leak at inlet/outlet or poor installation | High |
| Fridge/freezer space — correct dimensions, ventilation gap | Inadequate clearance affecting appliance function | Medium |
| Plinth — level, clipped in place, no gaps | Gaps beneath units or falling plinth | Low |
| Sockets and switches — correct heights, all functional | Sockets at incorrect height or non-functional | Medium |
| Extractor fan — functional, venting externally | Recirculating instead of externally vented | High |
| Flooring — continues under appliances as specified | Incorrect flooring layout or lifting at edges | Medium |
| BEDROOMS | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Walls — plaster finish, no cracks, even paint coverage | Uneven paint or cracking at ceiling junction | Low |
| Ceilings — level, no cracks, light fitting centred | Off-centre light fitting or cracks at corners | Low |
| Built-in wardrobes — doors aligned, all mechanisms work | Misaligned sliding doors or broken runners | Medium |
| Windows — operation, restrictors fitted (upper floors) | Missing child restrictors on upper-floor windows | High |
| Radiator — level, functional, TRV operational | Cold spots or poorly positioned TRV | Medium |
| Sockets — per specification, flush, all live | Missing double sockets or dead outlets | Medium |
| TV point — present and per specification | Missing or wrongly positioned TV outlet | Low |
| Door — hangs level, latches cleanly, no binding | Catching on carpet or frame | Medium |
| Flooring — laid level, no creaking boards | Creaking floorboards or lifting carpet | Medium |
| Loft hatch (if in or adjacent to bedroom) — insulated, sealed | Uninsulated hatch causing heat loss | Medium |
| BATHROOMS & EN-SUITES | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Bath / shower tray — level, no flex, fully sealed | Flex in bath or gap in silicone seal | High |
| Shower enclosure — glass clean, door seals watertight | Leaking door seals or damaged glass | High |
| Tiles — grout complete, no cracks, no hollow tiles | Hollow tiles (tap test), cracked grout | High |
| Silicone sealant — all junctions fully sealed | Missing or cracked silicone at floor/wall junctions | High |
| Basin / WC — secure, fully plumbed, no leaks | Movement in basin or dripping waste | High |
| Taps and shower controls — all function correctly | Poorly calibrated thermostatic shower | High |
| Extractor fan — functional, externally vented | Fan recirculating rather than ventilating | High |
| Heated towel rail — level, functional, valve operational | Cold rail or leaking connection | Medium |
| Mirror / cabinet (if included) — level, secure | Non-level mirror or loose fixings | Low |
| Flooring — grouted, no lifting, correct slip rating | Lifting tiles or incorrect slip-resistance | High |
| Pipework — all concealed as specified, no exposed runs | Exposed pipework contrary to specification | Low |
| Window — frosted glass (if applicable), trickle vent present | Clear glass in bathroom or missing vent | High |
| UTILITIES, SERVICES & TECHNICAL | ||
| What to Check | Common Snag | Priority |
| Consumer unit (fuse box) — correctly labelled, all breakers trip | Unlabelled circuits or non-tripping breakers | High |
| All sockets tested — live and earthed | Dead sockets or reversed polarity | High |
| All light switches — functional, no loose plates | Non-functioning switches or loose faceplates | Medium |
| Boiler — fires correctly, pressure correct, manual provided | Boiler failing to fire or missing documentation | High |
| Heating system — all radiators heat fully, no air locks | Cold spots in radiators requiring bleeding | Medium |
| Hot water — runs hot within reasonable time | Slow hot water or incorrect cylinder temperature | High |
| Underfloor heating (if fitted) — all zones functional | Zones not heating or thermostat errors | High |
| Water pressure — adequate at all outlets | Low pressure at shower or upstairs taps | High |
| Smoke detectors — present in all required locations, tested | Missing detectors or non-functional units | High |
| Carbon monoxide detector — fitted adjacent to boiler | Missing CO detector (Building Regs requirement) | High |
| EV charger / car charging point (if specified) — functional | Non-functional charging point | Medium |
| Solar panels (if specified) — generation meter reading correctly | Meter not recording generation | High |
| Mechanical ventilation (MVHR if fitted) — all vents present, balanced | Blocked or missing vent grilles | Medium |
Snagging List Template: How to Format Your Document
Your snagging list should be a clear, professional document. Each defect should be recorded in an organized way. Here is a suggested format for each entry:
| Field | Description / Example |
| Ref No. | Unique reference for each snag (e.g., KIT-001 for Kitchen item 1) |
| Location | Kitchen / Master Bedroom / Bathroom 1 etc. |
| Description | Left-hand base unit door hangs 5mm lower than adjacent door. Gap at top-right corner visible when closed. |
| Photo Ref | IMG_0047, IMG_0048 |
| Category | Cosmetic / Fitting / Structural / Services |
| Priority | High / Medium / Low |
| Date Noted | DD/MM/YYYY |
| Developer Response | [To be completed by developer] |
| Resolution Date | [To be completed when resolved] |
Always include a cover page with your name, address of the property, date of inspection, and a statement that the document is submitted formally as your snagging list. Number every page and every snag entry.
Many buyers now use dedicated snagging apps (such as Snag My New Home or similar) which allow you to attach photos directly to each snag entry and export a professional PDF report. These can be very effective.
NHBC Snagging: Understanding Your Warranty
The NHBC (National House Building Council) Buildmark warranty is the most common new build warranty in the UK. It covers most new homes. Understanding how it works helps you protect your rights as a buyer.
How the NHBC Buildmark Warranty Works
The warranty has two phases:
- Years 1–2 (Builder’s Obligation Period): The developer must fix any defects. This is when your snagging list matters most. Defects reported during this period are the builder’s responsibility to repair.
- Years 3–10 (NHBC Insurance Period): The NHBC insures major structural defects. Minor cosmetic issues are no longer covered. The NHBC can step in if the developer goes out of business or refuses to act.
The NHBC also offers a Resolution Service to help resolve disputes if a developer does not respond properly to your snagging list. It is free and often effective.
What the NHBC Covers and Doesn’t Cover
The NHBC covers defects caused by failure to meet its Technical Standards. It does not cover:
- Damage caused by occupants after completion
- Normal wear and tear
- Defects within accepted building tolerances
- Issues with appliances (covered by manufacturer warranties)
- Damage from lack of routine maintenance
Always register your NHBC warranty after completion. You should get a Buildmark booklet and policy number from the developer. If not, request it in writing. You will need it for any future claims.
Other Warranties
Not all new builds have an NHBC warranty. Alternatives include LABC Warranty, Premier Guarantee, and Build-Zone. The snagging process and buyer rights are similar, but always read your warranty terms carefully to understand how to make a claim.
What to Do If the Developer Doesn’t Fix Your Snags
Not all developers respond promptly to snagging lists. If your snags are ignored, follow this escalation process:
Step 1: Follow Up in Writing
Send a formal reminder citing the snags, referencing your original submission date, and request a response with a repair timeline within 14 days.
Step 2: Escalate to the Customer Care Team
Large developers usually have a customer care or aftercare team separate from the site staff. Send your complaint in writing to them and copy it to the site manager. Keep all correspondence.
Step 3: Contact the NHBC or Warranty Provider
If the developer still does not respond, contact the NHBC or your warranty provider. The NHBC Resolution Service can help communicate with the developer and, if needed, appoint an independent inspector to assess disputed snags.
Step 4: Use the New Homes Ombudsman
For properties sold after 1 April 2024, the New Homes Ombudsman provides an independent dispute resolution service. It is free for buyers and can award compensation if the developer acted unfairly.
Step 5: Consider Legal Action
As a last resort, you may take legal action for breach of contract if serious defects are not fixed. Always seek legal advice first, as this can be time-consuming and costly.
Record Everything
Keep copies of all emails, letters, text messages, and notes from phone calls, including dates, times, and names. Your paper trail is essential if the dispute reaches the NHBC, Ombudsman, or court.
Snagging List: Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a snag and a defect?
A snag is any incomplete or substandard work in a new build. A defect usually refers to a problem that develops over time. In practice, a “snagging list” covers all defects, imperfections, and unfinished work.
Can I refuse to complete a new build because of snags?
Minor snags are usually not enough to delay completion. Serious defects that make the property uninhabitable or not as agreed may give you grounds to delay or seek remedies through your solicitor. Always get legal advice.
How many snags should I expect on a new build?
It varies by developer, property size, and inspection level. A professional snagging survey often finds 50–200 snags on a typical house. Most are minor and quick to fix. The key is to document and get them addressed.
Do I need a snagging checklist PDF?
Yes. A printed checklist makes it easy to take handwritten notes during the inspection. Many buyers use a printed checklist on site, then transfer the information to a digital document for submission.
Is a snagging list the same as a survey?
No. A snagging list focuses on new build defects and unfinished work. A property survey, like a RICS Level 2 or Level 3 survey, assesses the condition of an existing home. Snagging is the right inspection for new builds.
Can snags affect my mortgage?
Major structural defects could, in rare cases, affect your mortgage if they raise questions about habitability or safety. If serious issues are found, inform your solicitor and mortgage broker immediately.
Final Thoughts: Don’t Move In Without Your Snagging List
A snagging list does not mean your new home is poorly built. It simply shows that construction is a human process, and even the best builds have areas that need attention. Developers who handle snagging professionally often have the best reputations.
The key is to approach snagging systematically and in writing. Use the room-by-room checklist, photograph every defect, submit your snag list formally, and follow up until all major issues are fixed.
Your new home is a big financial investment. A thorough snagging list protects that investment from day one.
